There is no denying that when it comes to the French world of Couture talent, it is hard to resist adopting the divided opinion that many people seem to have towards statement gowns. A few designers are capable of crafting these garments expertly, but those who err on the side of sophistication will find solace in Kim Jones' subtle aesthetic, which hints at both the sensibility and the sophistication of the clothes she designs. After years of creating runway statements for the sake of it, fashion's commercial madness may be forcing designers to evaluate what they're best at, their identity, and their creative practice.

Certainly, this is the case with Jones, who has chosen to concentrate on 40 lace-like dresses for Spring, and that concludes the story. According to Jones' collection notes, he wanted to emphasize couture techniques and crafts while also bringing in fluidity, lightness, and attitude that reflects today's desires and attitudes. As mentioned above, there has been a lot of discussion regarding the ateliers and artisans who make these garments, and the amount of time, effort, and commitment they both put into them over the course of the past few years.

Is This idea of blocking out the grandeur of the Palais Brongniart's central nave - with its fine stone archways, gilded cupola, and soaring glass roof - to replace it with a clinical white oval-shaped room that resembles a laboratory in some futuristic space station seem strange. Although Fendi’s craftsmanship is so delicate and painstaking, bright light, models brushing the knees of front rowers, and no busy decor competed for attention, enhancing appreciation of laser-cut leather, dense micro beading, gossamer crochet, micro pleating, and intricate lace.

Kim Jones, Fendi's artistic director of haute couture, ready-to-wear, and fur collections for women, said lingerie is the underpinning of women, and that lightness comes first. Jones showed off slender cashmere lined coats with dense embroidery as well as tulle columns embroidered with hand-painted flowers during the preview. Upon taking over the Fendi couture division a little over two years ago, Jones described what he hoped to accomplish as a juxtaposition to the many "heavy clothes" that could be seen around the house. In my opinion, it is really important for [the clients] to feel comfortable and really good, that's what I think is really important, he said. I believe that the way we live now is very different from the way we used to live in the past. In fact, I am just thinking about the modern times, the modern stresses, and the modern ways of solving problems."

This collection consists of long, body-skimming dresses that have the lightness of lingerie and, at times, have the suggestion of dishabille about them. In his view, there is a sense that underwear is becoming evening wear. It is true, this fashion show did not set off many sparks because there was little variation in silhouettes and many pale colors were used. It was the art of couture that was the star of the show, perhaps exemplified by the metallic leather that was made to the appearance of lace or chain mail while maintaining its malleability and softness at the same time. A hot-button topic this couture week is the welfare of animals, with Schiaparelli catching flack online for the hand-sculpted, entirely faux animal heads in the clothing it showcased at the show. During his time at Fendi, Jones has already changed the focus of his couture business, started in 2016 by the late Karl Lagerfeld, from fur to fabric dresses, which are generally long and lean in shape.

As an embellishment, small bits of fur were used on only two of the 39 exits Thursday. Intricate lace intarsias and a soft, cobweb-delicate crochet gown made from Japanese mohair evoked even more wonder. It was with interest that Jones said he returns often to the archives of Fendi - and this is especially true now that the house is participating in the Costume Institute's exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in spring 2023 about Lagerfeld. It should be noted that lightness was one of the hallmarks of Lagerfeld's fashions, and Jones did an excellent job of evoking this.

A Selection Of The Collection's Highlights

Lightness Was The Theme

A preview of Kim Jones' Fendi haute couture collection the day before the event was described as "lightness." It was clear that his message was clear with his collection of wispy, silvery evening slip dresses in dusty pastels and metallics, which employed all of the intricacies of haute couture without making the silhouette - or indeed the weight of the garment - heavy.

Directed By Baillie Walsh

Inside the Palais Brongniart, the collection was displayed within a small almond-shaped white optical spaceship structure. This is Jones' second collaboration this season with director Baillie Walsh, who also directed the Dior men's show a week ago. The ABBA Voyage he performed was very enjoyable. The avatars are absolutely amazing. Baillie, you need to perform fashion shows," Jones advised.

Materials Were Not As They Appeared

Using materials that aren't as they seem, Jones drew inspiration from his predecessor Karl Lagerfeld. In order to put it into practice, he sheathed dresses in lace that was actually made of leather or covered entire creations with tiny, tiny beads which looked like laminated fabric in Baillie's bright white light. Interestingly, Jones eschewed the fur that has historically characterized Fendi.

Delfina Delettrez Fendi Jewelry Inspired By Climbing

In With Delfina Delettrez Fendi, lightness is embodied in jewelry that was inspired by her personal passion for climbing in the Dolomites. My objective was to be able to work on all the climbing accessories as well as the mechanics and metallics. It's not social climbing!” she said. This collection of silver artworks is characterized by technological hooks and shapes that are rounded to create a more feminine and organic look. Sculptural and tactile, her pieces capture the lightness of the collection perfectly.

Jones' Final Haute Couture Collection And A Countdown To Karl's Met Gala

Before May's Met Gala, which will honor Karl Lagerfeld, Jones presented his final haute couture collection. As Jones prepares for what could be the house's biggest red-carpet adventure to date, he will be joined by Lady Amanda Harlech, a close friend of Jones who was by Jones's side in the Fendi studio. The lightness of this season's dresses will be showcased in even greater depth.

An Overview

This collection consisted of a long, body-molding lingerie template that appeared as a dress, as a skirt, or as a fluid top-topped with some (though not much) variation added by intensely-embroidered, invisible fabrics that kept structure. An example would be lace and hand-pleating motifs, coupled with a more wearable design for art-house knits. There was an emphasis on underwear becoming eveningwear. Jones was able to present the complexity of couture against a backdrop of ease and divine grace, thus combining comfort, elegance, and a rarefied understanding of the craft. Upon viewing his clothes on a rail, they radiate hyper-feminine wearability, but conveying this within a show is more difficult. While there were some clunkers in the mix, they should be viewed as signs of progress rather than failings. Taking risks is a necessary part of the process of learning for a couturier, and Jones' willingness to take risks is encouraging.

By Rashmi Goel